NZ Day 21 LA to UK

A good nights sleep. We woke close to 8:00 to blue skies – another glorious southern California day. It must get boring??
We did some more packing then headed down for some breakfast. Things were quiet there. It seems they had only 2 people taking breakfast and tried hard to sell us the full breakfast option, but failed. They then charged us only for 1 full rather than 2 continental breakfasts and gave us full takeaway coffees – nice to be looked after.
We finished packing and left our bags at the hotel. A short walk to the pier then back into town for Sue to do some shopping. I halted by a street singer – Chelsea Williams and sat in the sun listening while Sue wandered the shops. Sue felt more confident in the shops today. First trying hard to spend some money in the Mango sale but no luck with sizing so Just ended up buying some assorted t shirts in Zara. Shop assistants were a bit over helpful which can be off putting. Gerry was happy listening to the street musicians so Sue then moved on to the farmers market, the largest in LA. Lovely listening to the banter of the customers and sellers and looking at all the fresh produce (mainly oranges). All in the sunshine.
Once sorted we took a taxi from the hotel, similar cost to the shuttle for 2 people and so much quicker and easier. Check-in was so much quicker as we had allowed the full 3 hours. Security took an hour then a quiet wait for the flight. 10 hours in the air before back to the UK winter.
The arrival at Terminal 5 gave us time for a coffee before boarding the bus to Winchester. A pleasant ride – I would recommend the coach to get to the airport. Christine * Emma picked us up in Winchester and we had a quet day with them. The family seemed very relaxed and happy – probably as a result of their break at Center Parcs.
All over now – roll on the next holiday.

NZ Day 20, Waiti to LA

Up early with things mostly packed. The sun is shining and we can hear the surf. Nothing we can do about it but go for a quick dip. The waves are all messy, a change of wind direction perhaps the cause. Ask Ian, he will know. Still, not a bad way to start the day. Sue goes off for a short run along the beach as I get a nice shower and finish packing.
We have left ourselves not much over 100km to drive today so a leisurely pace to a small town near Auckland. Thee we meet a Swiss Kiwi – operating the North Island equivalent of Campa South. We meet at a random service station then follow her out into the country. She takes the keys without discussion or examination and then gives us a lift to the airport. Low key Kiwi ways.
A few hours later we are in the air. Not a bad service but the reclining seats from in front do restrict movement a bit. I still managed a bit of rest in the 11:30 flight. That plus a couple of films, dinner and breakfast.
Arriving at LA early in the morning we got the Super Shuttle. This gave us 2 tours round the airport whilst the driver hoped to find more passengers. We got to the Holiday Inn at about 9:15. Amazingly they hustled our room so we were happily installed half an hour later after a short walk down to the pier.
Obeying the demands of our bodies / minds we crashed out for an hour. I don’t know if this is the best thing regards jet lag but my principle is to stay tired enough to sleep at proper night but keep enough sleep for comfortable survival.
So after 2 hours sleep the bonus day began. First stop Santa Monica pier, built of wood complete with big wheel and roller-coaster. Busy and cheerful and a nice place to be. A stroll along the sea front to Venice followed. Amazingly flat raked sand leading to a calm blue ocean. No swimmers at 25 degrees probably too cold. There were runners, skaters and cyclists; beach volley ball games and people strolling. It was very relaxed.
Our gentle stroll took us a couple of hours then we headed into the “outdoor shopping” area. I gather this is one of those few areas not in an indoor mall. We wandered through all the big name shops but bought little, other than a bite to eat. Back to the hotel for a short break, some e-mailing and then it was nearly time for dinner.
The dinner search should have been easy but there was almost too much choice, and being still a little fatigued we weren’t as decisive as we could have been. We started at the pier, moved to the food court in the shopping area and then back to the pier. Some good fish and chips for me and a chicked sandwich and fries for Sue, with live music in the background. I had the best beer I have tasted for a month. Speight’s might be good for a hot NZ day but not my favourite. (A strange sight was an English Bar offering Newcastle Brown on draught!)
Back to the hotel to collapse for a long restful sleep. The US kingsize probably bigger than the total area of our campervan.
Life keeps me smiling.

NZ Day 19 Waiti

What can I say? Another day on the beach with wall to wall blue sky, a cool breeze to stop overheating, warm sea and no pressures.
Up in the morning for as light breakfast then a long walk – about 100m to the sea. Half an hour splashing in the waves then out for a time doing nothing. We had to walk along the beach to town – about 20 minutes each way. This got us the necessary provisions for the remainder of our stay. Back to the camp-site for lunch. More reading in the shade and then another half hour swim. This time the dry sand and the paths were too hot to go without sandals.
At this point Sue decided that what was really missing was some tramping in the bush, so I dutifully followed her along this path that wound its way round some wooded areas, managing to provide zero views. Getting back to the beach we discovered where we should have gone and so went on another tramp. This was better with some great views of the beach and coves beyond the headland.
I’m sitting in the shade, glass of Old Coach Road sauvignon by my side contemplating a nice shower and dinner.
Earlyish start tomorrow to drop the van off on the way to the Airport.
Tomorrow night Santa Monica.
Life just purrs along.

NZ Day 18 Waihi

This is what holidays are all about, not the activity challenges of the Alps or of South Island, nor the different challenges of the Lakes or Snowdonia, nor is it the family visits. Today, or at least this afternoon was at the seaside. The camper was in a decent site (another of the Top 10 chain) about 30 metres from the beach. Within minutes of arriving Sue & I were in the sea, playing in the waves. Half an hour of splashing about was followed by a quick hot shower and lunch.
The afternoon involved a walk along the beach then a bit of shopping and a walk back. Then there was swim number 2. The waves were higher, some over a metre so more fun. There were surfers about – it looked like a day for the serene long boards.
A longer shower, a short walk and then dinner. More NZ chilled white wine (we seem to find this preferable to any of the reds we have tried though we did have some good red at the Williams house).
I’m now sitting as darkness falls at a picnic table struggling to type. Sue has gone to wash-up. Then the wine to finish and a gentle slow down.
Hee for another day and night so should be well relaxed for the journey home. Just tonight and tomorrow night in the camper. It has gone so quickly…
Life is calm, life is good.

NZ Day 17 Visiting Willers

The Williams family, emigrants and parents and newest arrival – Priya – were based near Papoa Beach. We drove there through the morning – the weather that had forced the closure of the Tongoriro Crossing evident with squally showers as we headed past Taupo and Rotorua. We had a short shopping stop and a lunch stop and arrive at the Williams’s house mid afternoon. The scenery was good, even on this grey day.
We even passed the Kiwi fruit centre should anyone be interested?
It is strange to travel so far and see our neighbours from home.
Priya was as exciting as a 3 month old baby normally is. It was good to see them all and we were made most welcome. James cooked a superb meal and we polished off a few bottles of wine and played NZ rummy until late. Another night not in the camper! I missed it in some ways. It will be strange to give it back in a few days time.
There were some strange conflicts. Discussing the relative benefits of the UK and NZ couldn’t really happen, there is so much that is not rational and roots are deeper for some than for others. Best to steer away from the topic.
Priya is lovely though.
Strange to visit the area without seeing the sea! Not the weather for it – some heavy rain in the evening.
Good times…

NZ Day 16 Tongoriro Crossing

Up early for the busy day. We had opted for the middle bus – 8:00. We were asked to fill in our details – campsite address, vehicle numbers, mobile phones etc. There was also a lecture on safety and on the arrangements for the return bus. They were definitely counting you on and off this mountain.
It was a short drive to the start, then we were off. There was the tendency to race the first part, to try to get away from the others, but there were always more ahead and loads behind. The route was well marked with board walks over sensitive areas. We set a reasonable pace to climb into the main part of the volcanic terrain. The vegetation got thinner and the ground dustier.
After the initial climb we reached a saddle where the bigger definitie looking volcano was an optional diversion. This was described in the DOC as 1:30 up and 30 down so we thought it well worth the excursion, as did many others. Once on the climb we began to suffer. It wasn’t the steepness or the length of the climb, but the nature. The so called path and the whole edifice was one pile of scree. There were times when upward progress was difficult as the ground was sliding as fast as you were trying to move. Afetr 45 minutes Sue had had enough, relaising that the summit ws just to tick a box. I was more stubborn and got probable 80% of the way but then, even at that late stage concluded that this just wasn’t worth it. The descent was one of those classic scfree runs you read about. The ones that you are asked to avoid in the popular areas. Each step was 10 feet and there was nothing firm enough to trip on. No boulders sticking through the scree. Descent was therefore quick, although once down I had to take shoes and socks off to try to get rid of the dust and gravel in my shoes.
We continued and later on took the excursion to the summit of Mt. Tongoriro. This was more satisfying with good views of the big volcane, better than views from the volcano.
There were stretches of the main path that were pure gravel, particularly a descent to 2 small lakes. There were a few running this; some starting tentatively and speeding up and some crawling slowly down. I reckon that within 10 years they will need to reroute the main path to avoid this gravel run.
The route containg a fairly long sction high in the mountain with a great feeling of being away from civilisation. The descent started very soon after the halfway point in distance. The manufactured path was easy angled but dropped from over 1900m to about 800m. It was never really steep and included many zig-zags. I guess this was better than shorter steeper descents for many of the punters. The last few k were back in the forest with welcome shade. We got down in plenty of time for the middle bus back to the campsite. We were a bit weary but well satisfied. For me it was a real highlight of the holiday.
Back at the campsite we saw that the next day had been cancelled with severe weather warnings. Such control!
We cooked again in the kitchen, chatting to a few fellow walkers weary from the crossing.
We were definitely lucky this time with the weather – a superb day in the mountains.
Life is treating us well.

NZ Day 15 Wellington to Tongariro

The plan for the next phase of the holiday was to do the Tongariro Crossing. This involved a journey of close to 300km, but started with a motorway. The Kiwi motorways mostly are dual carriage ways with a bit of a hard shoulder, but nothing as good as the M50. There was also a fierce gusting wind. This affected the camper like nothing I have ever driven. On the steady bits the steering wheel was turned to the right by 20 degrees. When we passed an obstrction to the wind, like a tree, there was a swift 40 degrees each way correction and a lurch and struggle to keep it between the lane markings. What a beast!
As the day drew on and we left the coast things improved. The journey progressed well. We stopped at a couple of markets to top up the supplies. Then we saw in the distance the volcanoes with snow on their flanks. With the network of roads we still had more than 60km to travel.
We drove up to Whakapapa to the visitor centre and decided to stay at the campsite there for 2 nights. We booked transport for the crossing the next day and were on site by 4:00.
Sue doesn’t like the site with too much tarmac. It is divided into individual bays – we are number 12. In the woods there is no good outlook and the opportunities to watch life go past are limited.
I like the peacefullness and the shelter from the wind and the accessibility of the village and some walks to do.
We’ll see how we get on. I’m writing this sitting in the sun with a cup of coffee and I might head out soon with the camera. Sue is off for a run A fairly amazing run to a waterfall she remembers going to with Ian, you can go behind it so also memories of the Brecons.
Back from an hour out taking photos of the surrounding peaks, sitting in the kitchen as Sue makes the dinner. Camp Kitchens are always interesting with the mix of nationalities, pasta and vegtables seems to be the most popular dish though. At least 6 different nationalities in here tonight. Then to bed will all quiet after 10:00.

NZ Day 14 Picton and the Crossing to North Island

Waking in Cable Bay we decided on an early morning run. There was a signpost by the beach with a 5.6km each way option that we thought we would try. It started up steps then up a field with sheep then up more grass with more sheep then up more and more and then we got to the top. Phew!
Looking along the coast it appeared that the next stage would be steep down a rough path and then steep up another and beyond that who knows. It wasn’t really the run we expected or wanted so we retreated with a quick descent to the beach. For me that was it – a strenuous 30 minutes was fine. Sue attacked the beach track with some interval training whilst I had a quick shower and packed things up for the next part of the journey.
There was a choice of routes to Picton, and we chose the shorter, more scenic of the two. It was full of twists and turns with some great views near the sea. We had no real need to stop so we went to Picton and enquired whether we could go on an earlier crossing but the price persuaded us to stay there and have an afternoon walk.
Picton was so much smarter than I remember, with marinas full of expensive boats and a high street with expensive cafes.
We set off towards Bob’s Bay and The Snout. This took us up hill past the Picton reservoir and along a hot open track before turning into a footpath. We made it as far as Queen Charlotte Loookout and then reversed our route back to town. Enough time for a beer and the ferry queue.
The journey across was scenic, particularly the sunset over South Island. We also had time for a meal and a chat with a Kiwi couple, talking campervans for a while.
On arrival in Wellington we were leaving the port at 10:30 with no direction signs we could see. We made it onto the main road North then with a degree of luck found a campervan park – more like a parking lot – and were tucked up in bed before 11:00.
Life ain’t bad.

NZ Days 12 & 13 Abel Tasman

With everything booked we got up early and with bags packed left the van at the long term parking in Marahau and were loaded on the water taxi attached to a tractor. This was just a but bizarre. The first stretch of the journey being towed down the beach.
The trip up the coast was cold. The sky was overcast with northerly winds and a choppy sea. The spray wasn’t too bad so I didn’t really get wet but was always thankful for the stops, to drop people off, to pick up and drop off bags and even picking people up who had decided to taxi rather than walk one of the Abel Tasman legs.
Our ride took us to Awaroa, about an hour and a half, seeing seals and the famous Split Apple Rock. We were dropped on the beach, requiring a few yards of paddling.
On the track there are a few places where the route is affected by tides. The first for us was on the way to Bark Bay and we felt we needed to hurry to hit the crossing within a few hours of low tide. We rushed down and laughed at the crossing. There was a small stream, 5 metres wide and easily crossed via stepping stones. We found out that this crossing is passable at high tide with a water level just above the knee. As we progressed the sun started to emerge and a swim seemed a good idea but why was no one else in the water? in Torrent Bay Sue finally succumbed; the water was beautiful and it felt like swimming in a massive open air pool with fantastic views. The remainder of the walk was taken as a run as Sue tried to warm up. Arriving on the beach at Anchorage Bay we gave what looked like a small boat a wave and they sent the dinghy for us. Welcome to Aquapackers the floting backpackpers what a great evening with people from 3 or 4 continents a barbecue and midnight(ish) swimming thrown in.
The night was calm, with the waves lapping against the side of the boat, disturbed only by the occasional sand fly bite reminders – the old bites seem to take on some evil force from ti me to time.

The morning rose clear with blue skies. Lee from the UK was the first in the sea, followed by most of the others – including me! for a very quick dip. We were ushered off before 10:00 and we marched the 12km back to Marahau. This stretch wasn’t the best. We had hoped for some idyllic beaches on the way, but they all seemed too far of the track to tempt us. Though as it was low tide we took a short cut straight across the last bay wich gave an oppertunity for some warm paddling. We were finished by late lunchtime back at the van.

Continuing the journey we toyed with the idea of Nelson Lakes but opted instead for another camp by the sea. We drove through Nelson (bad traffic – almost a traffic jam! Out the other side it got quiet again and we turned off the main road to Cable Bay. A simple campsite, full of the chatter and noise of families playing. Off to the beach as soon as we arrived for another swim in quite warm sea. Then back for another simple dinner.
Life is fine. Amazing Gerry has been swimming twice in one day!!

NZ Day 11 From the West Coast to Abel Tasman

Waking up by the beach was good, with fine weather promisng a good travel day. After a light breakfast we took the local walk up to Elizabeth Point, marked as 1 hour each way. We took this as a run and although starting heavy legged I managed a steady pace on a well made path through the bush. I could get used to these types of runs, varied with twists and turns, short climbs and fast little descents. The lookout at the end gave good views along the coast. Returning to the campsite we had time for a little paddle in the Tasman Sea before packing up.
I refilled the water in the van. I had done this once before and filled it until it flowed out of the top. This time it just went on filling. There is no way to tell the level so I carried on until started seeing water flowing out of the side of the van. guess this is part of the Toyota Hi-Ace Camper Experience!
We set off at 11:00 on a twisty coast road, past pancake rocks without stopping – been there before, not too exciting.
Similarly we passed the longest swing-bridge in NZ but clouldn’t be bothered paying $5 for the privilege of walking over and back. Also the place was swarming with bees so we headed off again looking for a good place to stop.
We had some miles to travel so we pushed on, eventually stopping for lunch at a picnic site close to a cafe where we got some nice take-out coffee. More bees meant we locked ourselves in the van and made this a short stop.
We drove on and made Motueka by mid afternoon. The info spot was very helpful and we booked our trip on the Abel Tasman track and our camping at Marahau. A quick visit to the supermarket and then to the campsite for dinner and a walk on the beach. Nice warm sea with things on the beach that look like jelly fish in perfect stars.
Life is fine.